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nate
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:34 pm  Reply with quote
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Well, if she goes into the carb and disconnects the cable, the choke should close. (Be unchoked.) I'll assume that the binding is somewhere in the cable, rather than in the carb itself- if the choke is binding in the carb, you'll have to deal with a whole rebuild, and if the carb is warped so bad that the choke is hosed, you might just be better off with a new carb.

Make sure the choke cable is seated properly in the air box insert- if the outer has come unseated a bit, it can shorten the cable, and keep it choked. (the choke is on the 'front' side of the airbox, towards the 'middle' of the bike. The throttle is the 'outer' cable.)

However, it's a bitch to choke the thing from inside the airbox. It's a pretty taut little system in there, geting the choke cable attached can usually cause a few moments of frustration. I wouldn't want to try to deal with it on a regular basis.

The 'farmer method' would be to take a length of cable and run the choke cable straight through a drilled hole in the cowl. That'd be pretty tight.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:48 pm  Reply with quote
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I really should look carefully at what is going on before I start asking a bunch of questions....but do you think that being seated incorrectly was what made it so darn hard to pull out?
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nate
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 1:53 pm  Reply with quote
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I doubt it. At least at the airbox where I'm thinking of it. It'd just have the effect of threading out the cable adjusters, like on the throttle and gear selector cables. it makes the 'outer' cable path longer, which takes up slack in the inner cable.

I'd probably disconnect the choke cable from the carb (inside the airbox, just a little loop that slips over a hook on a spring assembly) and see if you can move the cable easily without it attached. It shouldn't bind at all. Just slide the inner freely through the outer. If it's tough to move, maybe you've got a weird kink inside the chassis.

If the unattached cable moves easily, then look at your choke on the carb- you say it's stuck open right now. If you take off the choke cable and the choke arm is still stuck out- then there's a big problem there! It should snap back on its own. You'll have to take out the whole carb (throttle cable, two big hex screws, and fuel banjo- don't lose the gaskets!) and take apart the choke assembly (two screws holding on the cap that the arm projects through.) Now take it all apart and see what's causing it to not slide freely.
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Derrick
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:11 pm  Reply with quote
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The main problem with Lisa's choke is that the tube that is welded to the frame - the one that holds the actual pull rod under the gas tank is broken off. So a farmer (not Lisa or me) put a section of rubber tube and some hose clamps on the stump of what was left and the choke cable outer. Not a good solution. This made the choke VERY hard to open. Thus, I assume it broke more.

There are a million "Jerry-rigs" that would sort of work. I don't know what would be the best one.

Of course a welded repair would be the best fix but who and how could it be welded back together.

"All the Kings horses and all the Kings men, couldn't weld that small tube back on agian"
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Lisa
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:41 am  Reply with quote
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Sounds like disconnect it and deal with it when I get back from Denver, hoping it won't be too much of a bitch to start. Acceptable solution?
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Derrick
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:09 am  Reply with quote
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Ya. Can you disconnect the cable from the pull rod under the seat?

If you can do that, then pull the cable out from inside the frame (by the cylinder shroud) and just tuck it behind the wiring harness. Though, the hose and hose clamps might get in the way or hold it to the tube on the frame. If it does you will have to pull the gas tank to diconnect it.

You could still use it by taking the engine cowl off and pulling the cable directly to choke it. (for cold starts - if needed) It is spring loaded to close by itself.

Lisa, does this make any sense?
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Lisa
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:03 pm  Reply with quote
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I took the cable off the little arm and it moved right back...cable also moves easily.

I got it started a little too early though considering it wasn't choked. I realize I shouldn't really complain about my scooter starting too easily, but it seemed like it wasn't right. I let it run about 10 minutes, seemed fine except for one backfire (not a big one, just a little pop).

So, should I just chock it up to good luck or could there be something wrong?
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Derrick
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:19 am  Reply with quote
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Wait a minute!

You think there is something wrong with your scooter because it started right up?

Is long as it runs like it did before, don't worry about it.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:23 am  Reply with quote
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I knew as soon as I hit "post reply" that I was making a mistake on that one. You can't tell me you've never felt like something was too good to be true though.
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Derrick
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:28 am  Reply with quote
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Ya. I hate that feeling.

Just test it a couple times. Do some cold starts.

It sounds like you removed the cable inner from the choke on the carb, right?

That will definetly close the choke (turn it off) but if you put the carb cover on you will have no way of manually choking the engine for cold starts. This may or may not be a problem for you - because it sounds like the choke wasn't working before... You said it was a hard starter cold.

I think you will be fine. (for Denver at least!)
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Lisa
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:56 am  Reply with quote
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Yes, that's what I did.

And yes, I figure that although I thought I had a choke before I carrried the vice grips around, I don't think I really did (I could pull it part-way out and then it would slip back before I actually got to kick it).

Hopefully Denver will go well!
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