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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:26 am  Reply with quote
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SO...

Somebody told me that I should take my tank someplace to get it cleaned properly. I don't remember who it was (John B maybe?) or where I was supposed to go. I have a bead blaster - I also remember somebody telling me it was a good idea to use it for cleaning the tank and somebody telling me it was a bad idea. Once again, don't remember which advice came from somebody that had experience in that area.

Any good tricks on pulling cables (all inners/outers need replacing) I have all of them ready to go and anticipate it being a bit tedious. Any advice in this area would be welcome.

Thanks all for answering these questions before, I aplogize for my bad memory.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:27 am  Reply with quote
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Oh, and it's the '63 smallframe that I'm talking about.
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LOREMipsum
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:40 am  Reply with quote
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This is what I did:

http://www.gastankrenu.com/
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nate
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:41 am  Reply with quote
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Location: Best Saint Paul

The name I always hear about is:
Gas Tank Renu-USA
6390 Carlson Dr
Eden Prairie, MN 55346 - 1727
(952) 937-0388


Derrick likes them, and Amy had her tank done there as well.
They'll clean and coat the tank.

As for cables, the best way to do it- Yank all the inners.
Buy a length of cable that's the same approximate diameter of the inner, but twice as long. Put a single one of those pinch bolts on the new cable, and you should be able to feed this cable through the outer without too much of an issue.

You've basically now got an inner that's sticking waaaaay out of one end of the outer, with a pinch bolt on the other side. Now feed the NEW outer over the exposed cable- snug it up tight to the old outer, and now put a pinchbolt on the other side of the cable. So you've got two outers back to back, with pinch bolts firmly in place. Now pull/push the assembly until you get the new one in place.

The usual 'sticking points' are at the collar where the headset meets the frame, and the horncast. THis method will definitely help with the horncast area, but you might still have to monkey a bit at the headset a little bit. But this is going to be a much better method than the 'duct tape and a prayer' method I've employed in the past.
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Derrick
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:42 am  Reply with quote
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Tank renu in Eden Praire.

Cables are a pain. There are many little details required to getting the new cables in and working well. I could write a book. Be prepared for a headache.

Use the old ones to pull the new ones in.

Use good gaffing tape to pull new cables into place.

Most of the cables will have to be cut. Don't cut them too short. Don't cut them to long. Cut them after installation. Use a very sharp wire snips. I solder the inner ends after installation.

New "teflon" lined cables are the best.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 11:40 am  Reply with quote
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Fortunately I didn't have to use up all my swear words at Mayhem, sounds like they're going to come in handy tonight.

Have you had better luck front to back/up to down or visa versa or does it not matter?
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nate
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:03 pm  Reply with quote
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I usually have an easier time getting the cable through the 'neck' from the top down, but through the horncast from the bottom up- so it's usually ended up being 'which one is going to be less of a headache this time around?'

All things going swimmingly, and you've got your nice length of outers secured to each other in some measure (tape or long cable) I'd probably prefer to go top down.

When the cables separate and you're doing whatever you can to get the stupid thing put into place, I've had 'more luck' running the new outer up from the bottom, and then running an inner or something down from the headset througth the horncast, and using that as a guide to get the new outer back up and around that bend.

My results may be atypical.
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some_dude
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:05 pm  Reply with quote
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I don't normally like to bad mouth a business publicly based on a single experiance, but...

I had a really bad experiance at Gas Tank Renu with a tank for a sports car. What it came down to is them not being careful when there were small passages in the tank and filling them with their goo. They attempted to correct this by cutting holes in the tank to access the problem areas. The passages remained mostly clogged and the tank was swiss cheesed & leaked. Their customer service skills were limited & I had to dispute the credit card billing before they admitted they caused more problems than they solved & did not charge me.

This was a rare tank & it took me a year to find another one. I was not a happy person.

Again, this was only a single experiance & was several years ago. They could be a whole new outfit by now.
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Jeff
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:17 pm  Reply with quote
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The best way to pull the outer is to feed a length of cable that is roughly 2.5x the normal length though (either from the top or the bottom). This is the tough part if the old outer is missing. If your gas tank is out it will be easier. Feed out the extra length at the back of the scoot and secure the new outer on the extra long cable with a barrel nut. Next pull the cable and outer back into the pathway and up to the head set. Finally remove the extra long cable and replace it with the new inner and secure.

Let me know if I didn't explain something correctly or clearly. This technique is way better than taping the old and new outers together. The old ones often just distintegrate.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:19 pm  Reply with quote
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I am going to take it there, but it is good to keep in mind. Perhaps I can tactfully note that I'm worried about it getting clogged and prevent an issue.

I don't think relaying a first-hand experience and sticking to facts rather than broad generalizations constitutes slamming a business. I appreciate the info.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of car?
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nate
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:31 pm  Reply with quote
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You won't have to worry about weird channels or anything getting clogged on the scoot tank- it's a pretty rudimentary piece of sheetmetal, with nice big openings. Sounds like the sports car tank was a much more delicate procedure, and I can see how that'd be a huge issue- but not one you're likely to run into in this situation.
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Matty
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:44 pm  Reply with quote
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I can't remember but it's the super early smallframe tank right? if it's the newer one it's cheaper to buy a new one, but the old ones are impossible to find.

_________________
-Matt
-++-you can't spell jackass with out JKSC-++-
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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:48 pm  Reply with quote
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It's a 63 - it used to be yours (or at least parts of it were) at one point. I think it was partly John's and partly two other people's as well. I got it from Brooke.
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Lisa
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 1:02 pm  Reply with quote
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One more thing...

Anybody know off hand how thick the cable is? I can use any old cable that's the right size for the twice as long trick, can't I?

I'm at the office w/o cable, and my office is down the block from Beiswingers. Stopping on the way home would be really convenient.
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some_dude
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:27 pm  Reply with quote
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Lisa wrote:
Just out of curiosity, what kind of car?


1971 Volvo 1800E

The car is not that rare but used fuel tanks are because the early models had the filler cap mounted horizontally on the top of the fender in a little recess. Rain ran down the roof, right to the filler. So, the car wouldn't run because of water in the gas. The car would sit & the tank would rust out. It made for a real premium on fuel tanks for these cars.

Of course, after my ordeal & search, someone started producing repro tanks.

I'm sure that's more than you ever wanted to know about Volvo tanks.
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