one little piece of general advice i'd give is to not try and get it done by the "du" or any other "deadline". things that should take 5 minutes sometimes take 5 weeks. sometimes things that seem really hard will go faster than you think (although not as often).
it's kind of a zen thing. you need to enjoy the journey and not be too caught up with trying to "get it done" or you'll cause yourself a lot more stress and make mistakes because you're rushing things that shouldn't be rushed.
take your time, ask lots of "dumb questions" (i did and still do!), and be ready to redo things more than once to get them right.
do you have the darnell and golfen book? i found it a big help...
good luck! in the end, despite some bad days, i had a great time rebuilding my bike and am looking forward to doing another one in the future. it'll be fun to follow your project on your bran-new thread here...
Actually, the fork is on and it rolls around and steers just fine. Just don't try to stop. I was just going to add the fender (so I guess I have to take the fork off anyway if I do that). I've put on a fender before though, so I thought that might make me feel like I'm doing something. There might be benefits to just leaving it off for the time being though. I got one on ebay that is in pretty nice shape.
While I kindof don't think I'll get it done, it was just a good motivation to get me started. It's been sitting for a long time and I get frustrated with myself for not donig anything about it. My last project took well over a year, and required a daring rescue by Derrick or it would still be sitting in my garage. I was hoping to do a little better on this one. It is nice to keep working on a regular basis rather than letting it sit, as it is easier for me to sort through the thoughts in my head when they're easily accessible (used recently). Otherwise every time I start I have to go through the orientation process.
If I do get it at least mobile enough for teh gymkhana (still doubtlful) it will be the rattiest rat ever though.
The available carbs are 16.10 and 16.16. The 16.16 looks like it has little bits of paint flakes (likely from a painted part that it was thrown in a bag with). I hope I can get it cleaned out - not sure as I haven't tried yet.
Great news on that tank. Lovely. fortunately I don't have to ride very far (If I get to the point of riding at all). Only the owner was there when I was there, and he wasn't a kid. Hopefully he'll do this very important job personally.
My parts will be here Monday. I have plenty to do with the cabling and wiring this weekend. I am replacing the frayed wires in the stator tonight, deal with the real fun tomorrow.
I mentioned that some of the inners and outers are totally stuck together and so I'll have to run the cables complete (thought I'd try Nate's duct tape and a prayer method on a few that run all the way through).
Everybody take a deep breath and send me good scooter karma please.
Thank you for the good Karma. I am taking plenty of deep cleansing breaths and taking a break for now.
I was able to fix the spots on the stator that looked like they might cause a short (exposed wire).
I got the brake pedal moving (it was rusted in place). I am still waiting for the rust-dissolver to work a little more so that I can get the pedal off and replace that cable. It is the only one that I can get at both ends, so I thought it would be a good place to start. I might be able to get at the top of one of the gear cables - not sure yet.
Question - I found a description of the order that the cables should be through the body for another model, but not mine. Is this standard from model to model? As I can't get at both ends of any of the other cables, I'm going to have to run them through and want to make sure I do it in order.
I haven't started with the wiring yet - maybe my patience will be better later.
I have decided to take the advice of many of you and just work at it a little at a time and it will get done when it gets done.
Thanks again all for your continued patience and advice.
Front brake and speedo cables go down the center of the fork tube.
I have always used very strong "gaffing" tape to pull the new cables in place. Here are some tips to this technic:
Clean/degrease the old cable end with a solvent like acetone before taping.
Use the strongest duct/gaffing tape you can find. The cloth type is best.
Rap the cables together end to end with the tape very cleanly and use as little as possible or it will snag.
If you follow these steps and there aren't other major issues you should have no problems. Some times on old ratty bikes the cable outers can get totally stuck in the frame and you are screwed. But that has only happened a couple times out of all the cables I have replaced (probably around a hundred or so). If you can grab both ends of a cable and move it back and forth through the frame, then the tape will work. Just go easy and don't pull hard if it snags. I grab both ends if I can and "feed/pull" them through.
Once you get them in place then you have to hook them all up. That is a completely different pain in the ass!
There seems to be no shortage of the pain in the ass factor!
I don't have the ends in the headset to pull through. I have the back ends, and I can see all cables through the body (under where the tank would be). They're cut off and pulled partially out (they came this way). I might be able to grab one of the gear cables in the headset, but all the others are lost someplace in the middle. Same for most of the wiring.
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